Love That Languedoc

I just got back from a long two weeks of tastings around Western Europe. We went as far north as Normandy (Cherbourg) and we went all the way down to Logrono in the Rioja region of Spain. We drove past a lot of vineyards on our tour, and I have to make a confession. I love the Languedoc.

I cannot deny the beauty and character of every wine country we drove through. I can't deny that there are talented winemakers everywhere we traveled.

But I have to admit that I love my region, the Languedoc-Roussillon, more than any other place I've visited.

Every beautiful place we visited sort of made me miss the Languedoc a little more.

What makes us different? Obviously, there's a great terroir. But the wonderful thing about terroir is that EVERY wine country has its own unique terroir. Ours isn't necessarily BETTER than the others. It's something else that draws me to the Languedoc.

I think it's the opportunity. The Languedoc-Roussillon is one of the largest wine producing regions in the world. We're responsible for something like one third of France's wine. And a decade ago, we were producing 10% of the GLOBAL wine supply just in this one area. But despite this vast size and importance, we are one of the least recognized areas.

Well I'm going to change that. Check out www.love-that-languedoc.com where I'll be running around the Languedoc-Roussillon with my camera. I'm going to be interviewing everybody I can find. We're going to show the Internet and the New World that the Languedoc is a vibrant place full of opportunity and energy. If you're reading this, I'm very grateful that you've been following my vineyard adventures. But NOW, I'm hoping you'll want to follow my Languedoc adventures as we rediscover every wonderful part of the Languedoc-Roussillon.

O'Belgium - Wallonie, Liège and Beyond.

I'm always excited to tell you about the magnificently named locales that I get to explore thanks to my wine travels. Today is a great day for these nominal revelations!

Our friend Fabrice Krier at La Tache de Vin is selling O'Vineyards wine at his new digs in Belgium. He's up and running and people anywhere from Belgique to Luxembourg can dig into some O'Vineyards. Oh, and let's not forget everybody living in Wallonie. He's my Wallonie wine croney.

Wine Fest ... err. Sinus Fest?

bestiole-de-la-guarrigue-ensemble,
originally uploaded by ryanovineyards.

Sunday, we got to attend a local wine and everything festival held in Moussoulens.

Ampelography, the identification of vines based on visible characteristics, lends its name to the event because we love our winemakers here (at least when it's time to party). The amazingly named festival, Les Ampelofolies, focuses on products of the vines ranging from fine wines to plonk to distilled press juice (anti-freeze).

But, at a glance, we see that Les Ampelofolies celebrates a whole lot of things that do not grow on vines. There's a growing focus on truffles and other less pricey regional delectables. It's really a celebration of all things smellable. A festival of the nose. Smell the terroir. Smell it!

And it's fun. Oh is it fun! Eat all day. Like a carnival where everything is delicious and the vendors made everything themselves. There's pros and amateurs. Volunteer firefighters selling home made cookies. Youngsters like my neighbors and I selling fine wine. Bands dressed as enormous insects.

And of course, like all French village fests, it is a celebration of the moustache.

Video for those who hate reading or just can't get enough of the wine fest ambience.

Tempete de 2009 - It's Windy

It's been a long and windy day. I am not allowed to go outside because my mom is panicking. The department has banned car travel until further notice. We can see three healthy trees fallen from the winery loft. We assume we're going to be clearing out a lot of trees. Hopefully nothing damages the vines or trellis system. A big one fell in the Syrah.

At least I can still drink.

Sometimes I stay inside all day voluntarily. But when it's forced upon me, I go ga ga. To demonstrate, a recent Garfield Minus Garfield comic:

(this is a comic strip that just reprints popular Garfield comics without the titular character, focusing instead on the grim existential masterpiece that is John)

Pruning Vines in the Winter

It's an exceptionally cold winter in France this year and everybody from Paris to Marseilles is covered in an unexpectedly thick sheet of snow. We are enjoying it in the Languedoc too as the vines can always use a good frost. The plants harden and green vines turn to woody tentacles that latch on to the wire trellis system so hard you think you'll need the jaws of life.

Most of the locals who prune professionally refuse to work with us because our trellis system (four wires) supports the plants too much. They need to be doing a plant every twenty seconds to make a decent wage. That means spur pruning AND ripping off all the growth. As you can see in this video, my dad is just pruning. A future video will feature how I run around behind him tearing down all the vegetation that he has pruned. But in this one we see the solemn slow work of cutting down vines and letting them hang on the wires.

It's pretty tedious but it's sort of beautiful (especially with snow on the ground). Some people will enjoy this movie and it's slow pacing across the frozen tundra and its light sense of nostalgia for sunny Florida where I spent my December in beach-going weather. Others will think I am an artsy fart. Such is life. Enjoy the video.

Punch down the cap - How to pige wine

Pigeage is more than just a funny word with indecipherable vowel distribution. It's a way of life. For weeks, all of our wines are going through an extended fermentation where the grapes and grape juice are turning into delicious red wine. This is a critical period known as maceration when the wine will draw its best qualities from the skin and the seeds in the tank. The undamaged grapes of harvest time impart their best qualities to the juice which will one day soon be fine wine.

But it's not smooth sailing, my friends. The tanks we hold the grapes in contain 80 to 100 hectoliters (converted to nonmetric: a lot) of grapes. And the pristine purple marbles that fall into the vat are crushed and torn asunder by the chemical forces at work when yeasts ferment the juice. What's more, there's a byproduct to all this fermenting: CO2. The Carbon dioxide rises to the top of the vat like bubbles in soda and they will lift the majority of the skin and seeds to the top, forming a thick hard cap.

Two or three times a day depending on where we are in the fermentation (determined by measuring the density and temperature of the wine in the cuve). This is hard. It's a struggle to push the grapes back down into the juice. Especially the first time. Especially the first hole. That first puncture is rough, but we've gotta' do it!

I've been looking for excuses to push back the daily pigeage ritual to give my tired arms a rest. My finely tuned ability to procrastinate led me to make a video about pigeing. And now, in an effort to avoid the afternoon pige, I'm writing a blog post about pigeing.

Now you can learn the ins and outs. See the tools I use. Learn the theory and strategies that I usually ignore. You too can use this blog post as a way to not do the work you should probably be doing right now.

Behold punch downs:

Wine punch down - Pigeage

oh, music by Phunt Your Friends available for free download at songfight.org

Taste Merlot before harvest to check maturity

I have a new video for you all. This is a little video that describes how we go about tasting the grapes to decide whether or not they're almost ready to harvest. You all know how to taste things, so it's a little basic. However, sometimes, it's fun to hear about the specifics like ... what exactly does tasting the seed show about acidity and maturity or ... how do you go about randomly picking grapes for a 200 berry sample that you'll bring to the lab.

Yes, these and far nerdier questions will be answered.


Tasting Merlot before Harvest

Pre-emptive Q & A:

Q: Ryan, isn't it a little late in the year to be checking your grapes' maturity? I thought that the Cabardes would have harvested most of its Merlot by now.
A: You are such a precocious reader! Yes, it's true that this is late. I filmed this in September and then got too busy actually harvesting to edit the video (also, I had to debug it because iMovie HD was giving me some trouble).


Q: How about a harvest update?
A: Harvest is going well. The Merlot and Syrah are in and they're fermenting. We just started punching down caps today on two of the vats and it's as hard as I remember. There's a new harvester that is amazing so our quality will go up even though we are harvesting a little less by hand this year. That's awesome, because it means less stress for me and better wine for all of us. :)